Augrabies Falls National Park

By Julienne du Toit

Photographs by Chris Marais

In the late South African travel writer TV Bulpin’s estimation, there are six great waterfalls in the world. Of these, some are feminine in their natural beauty – the Victoria Falls being “Queen of them all”, with her soft, intensely green, personalised rainforest.

The Augrabies, on the other hand, is “is essentially masculine – ruthless and brutal in a harsh and fearsomely arid landscape.”

Its name is from the Nama word ‘!oukurubes’, which means ‘the noise-making place’. When the Orange River is in full flood, the unrelenting roar of the 56-metre high Augrabies falls can be heard forty kilometres away.

Diamond Legends

The Orange River is a fascinating waterway, winding from its source in the moist highlands of the eastern Malutis and Drakensberg mountains through the hot semi-deserts of the Karoo and Kalahari to the icy Atlantic. Nowhere is the river more spectacular than here, at the Augrabies Falls National Park.

Augrabies has long intrigued diamond hunters. There are enduring rumours that a fortune in diamonds has washed down the river over aeons, accumulating in the huge and dangerous pool just below the falls. Interestingly enough, an ancient Nama legend has it that a Great Snake lives in this ‘wonder hole’. It has diamonds in its eye sockets and its powers include a mysterious influence over all who behold it.

When the Augrabies Falls National Park was proclaimed in 1966, it covered a pitifully tiny 3 708 hectares, but it has subsequently grown to nearly 56 000 hectares.

Otherworldly Landscape

In recent years, the Orange River has often come down in flood and, especially in mid-summer, the Augrabies Falls in full spate has drawn thousands of overnight and day-visitors to its thundering waters cascading down the gorge. But there is so much more to this incredible national treasure.

Augrabies Falls National Park is a stony, otherworldly place. Pieter van der Walt starts his book Augrabies Splendour with the words “There is a stoic tenor to the landscape shaped by the Orange River… A harshly arid land of slow change – a tribute to sublime desolation.”

The park’s austere setting wields a fascination for those who enjoy spectacular landscapes and who open their eyes to the little creatures.

Home of the Flat Lizard

This is not a park to visit if you’re only interested in the charismatic megafauna. The scenery (including Moon Rock, Echo Corner and Ararat) is far more riveting in all its geomorphological glory, although you stand a good chance of seeing Hartmann’s mountain zebra, springbok, klipspringer and even giraffe, and along with many special birds, and of course dassies (rock hyraxes).

Look out for the endemic rainbow-tinted Augrabies flat lizard.

Apart from being technicolour, Augrabies flat lizards also live a colourful social life and can sometimes be seen doing 360-degree flips to catch flying insects.

Know Before You Go

• Augrabies is relatively easy to access by physically challenged people although the trail leading to the walkways is a little uneven. There are several boardwalks, of varying lengths, leading to platforms with spectacular views. Depending on the season, you would often have a platform to yourself;
• Accommodation in the park consists of self-cater chalets (for couples and families) and excellent campsites. Two chalets are wheelchair accessible.
• There are also many stayover options just outside the park;
• For travelling supplies, Kakamas has good shops and fun restaurants like the Pienk Padstal and Rose Café;
• Insect repellent is advised for the summer months, to keep gnats (miggies) and mosquitoes at bay. Some visitors even wear mosquito head-net hats on outings (they are available at the park shop);
• The nearest large airport is 120km away at Upington.

Karoo Roads IV – In Faraway Places (360 pages, black and white photography, R350 including taxes and courier in South Africa) to be launched in September 2024.

 The Karoo Quartet consists of Karoo Roads 1 to 4, consisting of more than 60 special Karoo stories and hundreds of photographs in black and white. Cost for the four first edition, author-signed volumes is R960, which includes taxes and courier service in South Africa.  Enquiries for both offers: contact Julie at julie@karoospace.co.za