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Williston – Almonds, Hard Rocks and the Nama Riel
May
Text and Photographs by Chris Marais
On July 10, 1768, Johan Abraham Nel from Stellenbosch stopped at a fountain near the Sak River to await the birth of his son. To commemorate his arrival, Nel planted an almond tree. Over the years, it grew into a massive shady oasis for passing man and animal alike.
Nearly a century later, two Rhenish missionaries camped under the almond tree and decided to establish a station at this spot, calling it Amandelboom (almond tree).
In 1883 the town of Williston was proclaimed here, named after a Cape Government official called Hampden Willis. But the local township is still called Amandelboom.
Modern-day Williston is a farming town with enormous character. One of the most interesting features of the area is the stone craftsmanship, evident in a number of old settler corbelled houses and, unique to this region, very creative tombstone engravings.
Most of these are the work of a legendary gravestone cutter called Cornelius de Waal, who would often be commissioned by farmers in the outlying areas to cut a family member’s gravestone.
‘De Waal’ gravestones, with their signature flowery flourishes and quaintly-spelt wording, have now gained a certain cult status. You find them here and there in the district, being gradually munched up by sandstone-eating lichen.
Williston is also one of the cultural centres of the Nama Riel, the dance of farm workers and sheep shearers and said to be connected to the nightly fireside rituals of the San Bushmen.
The Nama Riel has been performed like this for nearly a century in the tiny hamlets and on the isolated farmsteads of the Karoo. It tells lovers’ tales, it mimics everyday animals, it dramatises the hunt, it is danced in buckskins or formal outfits, and it moves to a magical rhythm.
Cross-country travellers are also drawn to the quirky Williston Mall, an innovative set of courtyard shops which also offers meals and accommodation. Pre-booking for a stay at the Williston Mall is essential.
Another feature of interest in the Williston area is a cheese-making business on Langbaken farm near the town.
The farm straddles the Sak River, which rises in the Nuweveld Mountains near Beaufort West and flows north-west through Williston. The Sak is the Karoo’s answer to the Okavango – an ephemeral river delta that sinks underground long before reaching the sea. Only in times of sustained high rainfall is there running water, ending in a shallow lake that spreads and slowly soaks away into the sands north of Brandvlei.
All the Langbaken cheeses are named after their tough terroir: Karoo Crumble, Karoo Blue, Karoo Swiss, Karoobossie, Karoo Sunset and Williston. Visitors are welcome to visit the farm and sample their cheeses.
Stay:
Die Ark Guesthouse (Williston Mall):
Tel: 079 580 2510 or Email: pieter-naude@hotmail.com
Williston Bed & Breakfast:
Tel: 053 391 3069 or 053 391 3690
Email: zakrivier@hantam.co.za
Dine:
Manna Restaurant:
Tel: 053 391 3000
Visit:
- Langbaken Farm: Tel: 053 391 4161 or Email: langbaken@williston.za.net
Explore the Area with a Guide:
Renowned local historian Elsa van Schalkwyk and Cora Steenkamp of Williston offer fascinating tours into the stony land and corbelled houses around Williston. Here you can see Cornelius de Waal’s extraordinary gravestones in the veld, and learn about the lifestyles and food in this region centuries ago.
Rates average R200 per person per day, but are negotiable depending on number of people.
Contact Elsa van Schalkwyk on 072 074 0912 or Cora Steenkamp on 082 463 3927.
Northern Cape Tourism Authority: www.experiencenortherncape.com
For an insider’s view on life in the Karoo, get the Three-Book Special of Karoo Roads I, Karoo Roads II and Moving to the Platteland – Life in Small Town South Africa by Julienne du Toit and Chris Marais for only R720, including courier costs in South Africa. For more details, contact Julie at julie@karoospace.co.za
I LOVE cheese – makes my mouth water
We will be in Williston in August and wanted to ask Elsa or Cora to guide us unfortunately after many tries no luck and we gave up.
The very first time I ever set foot in Williston, staying at Die Ark, I fell madly in love with this town. Now years later I consider retiring to Williston.
The Langbaken cheese is to die for.